1) Lots and Lots of Appliqué

The Underskirt

Let me begin with a pretty, pretty picture. This is the underskirt in production--note the line of basting an inch from the bottom and that one of the flowers is pinned to the fabric on the left. In a very lengthy process, I cut the flowers from one fabric and appliqued them onto this fabric (beige with the diamond pattern). All of this before actually making the underskirt, which was eventually backed with muslin and cartridge pleated.

The Original Fabric

In order to appliqué, I would select a section, roughly cut it, fuse it to another fabric and then closely cut out the vines and flowers (leaving about 1/16th inch for sewing). Fusible is fabric with glue on one side, used to stabilize, stiffen and prevent fraying. Finally I arranged my selected vines and flowers on the new fabric of the underskirt, creating a pleasing asymmetrical-symmetry. My favorite new term.

A very long view of the underskirt still in process (I eventually filled in both ends), to give a better idea of the full length of the appliqué design. And a close up to show the pins and the fabric in process.